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  • 5-pt harness?

    I'm getting a 5-pt harness, but don't know much about them...

    When your ordering you have options of:
    - belt size (3" or 2") (I want 3?)
    - Pull up or Pull down (I want pull-down)
    - Roll-bar or floor mounting location (I want roll-bar)
    - colour (black)
    - belt length (62 or 55 inches) (?????)
    - camlock or latch style release (latch probably - cheaper)

    The question is basically, what is the difference between a Simpson $100 harness and an R.J.S $60 harness, they have all the same specs/approval ratings, etc. Will the comfort level be any different? (prices USD off summitracing.com)

    Anyone input is appreciated.
    Last edited by G-ForceJunkie; 05-24-2005, 09:40 PM.
    Andy
    Mobil 1 Time Attack - #96

  • #2
    Re: 5-pt harness?

    Originally posted by G-ForceJunkie
    I'm getting a 5-pt harness, but don't know much about them...

    When your ordering you have options of:
    - belt size (3" or 2") (I want 3?)
    - Pull up or Pull down (I want pull-down)
    - Roll-bar or floor mounting location (I want roll-bar)
    - colour (black)
    - belt length (62 or 55 inches) (?????)
    - camlock or latch style release (latch probably - cheaper)

    The question is basically, what is the difference between a Simpson $100 harness and an R.J.S $60 harness, they have all the same specs/approval ratings, etc. Will the comfort level be any different? (prices USD off summitracing.com)

    Anyone input is appreciated.
    For what it's worth I have tried 3 different kinds while racing the Sentra, latch style 5 pt, latch 6 pt, camlock 6pt. I've used the 5pt latch style in the Honda ice racer and this is what I found. The 3" is a given. Get some nice shoulder pads for them though. It makes long use more comfortable. Go with Camlock not the latch style. When belting up it's so easy to insert one belt at a time and it takes half the time than trying to gather all 5 pieces with a latch style and trying to latch them all up at the same time.
    It really became noticable when we ran the three hour enduro and we could do a driver swap from fully belted in to unlatching, swapping drivers and being ready & latched in and ready to go in 1 min 30 seconds. Then to race around for 55 minutes and still feel as comfortable as when I got in.
    Also, buy good name brand with a date code to be as new as possible.
    Just my 2 worth. Oh by the way in 2002, I put on 5300km, in 2003 another 4800km and in 2004 an additional 6000+ km on the race track alone in the Sentra, so I think I'm qualified to give you some advice on this topic.
    And after crashing head on into the wall last August at 75 miles an hour and pushing the rad all the way back to the shock towers, I'm sure glad I didn't skimp on some cheap ass belts.
    Perry Iannuzzi
    Past President
    Canadian Automobile Sport Clubs -Ontario Region

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    • #3
      Have you actually tried pull-down straps vs. pull-up straps? Pull-up is virtually always easier:

      - you can use two hands
      - the adjuster stays in the same place relative to the seat as you adjust it
      James Mewett
      CCC Lurker

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      • #4
        Originally posted by James Mewett
        Have you actually tried pull-down straps vs. pull-up straps? Pull-up is virtually always easier:

        - you can use two hands
        - the adjuster stays in the same place relative to the seat as you adjust it
        can't say I have....pull-down just seemed easier when I thought about it, guess that's something to consider though, thanks
        Andy
        Mobil 1 Time Attack - #96

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        • #5
          Definately want pull-up lap belts. with pull-down there's almost no way you can adjust them without having the car door opened. it's VERY common to get 2-3 corners into your "run" and find that you need those belts just a bit tighter......try doing that with pull-down belts.

          personally....i'd go with 6 point belts. They are more comfortable for "junior"

          Certification is a big thing also....not sure what the rules are for your series. But....generally SFI rated belts are good for 2 years, and FIA certified belts are rated for 5 years.

          Cam-lock vs. Latch link......well...i rally, and the CARS rally regs do not allow latch-link style belts!!!

          Don't forget the seat...invest in something that fits you well. Even 5-points on a stock seat don't do enough for you.

          If by chance you don't need certified belts for your series (some don't) I happen to have a Sparco 5-point i'll sell you...it's out of date by 1 month for Rally.
          Chris
          Old School Motorsports

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          • #6
            If you're getting a 5pt, make sure your seat has the centre hole for the anti-sub belt.

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            • #7
              The problem with pull up adjusters is room. Some adjusters won't really allow the belt to move when you pull the tail parrallel to the belt. You often have to pull out, then down. I always find I can never get a pull up belt done up full tight, since there isn't room to pull the belt tail out, you can only pull it along the axis of the belt. I also find it easier to use both hands on a pull down, since the belt tail is always in front of you. With a pull up the adjuster has to be outside of the seat holes off to one side in order to not have the stitching of the belt interfere with the adjuster.

              Never the less I would say don't buy pull ups until you've tried them at least once.
              Marshall McLean
              95 Mazda Miata
              sigpic

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              • #8
                Thanks for the input

                I don't think Solo 1 has date requirements for belts ... atleast I can't find any under section 2.1 of the rulebook
                Andy
                Mobil 1 Time Attack - #96

                Comment


                • #9
                  Go with Camlock not the latch style. When belting up it's so easy to insert one belt at a time and it takes half the time than trying to gather all 5 pieces with a latch style and trying to latch them all up at the same time.
                  I am not sure I agree with you, Perry. I have logged a lot of miles (km's?) in road racing, as well. And most of those are in endurance events, where a driver change was necessary.

                  I have only used the "latch and link" style of harnesses in my own cars, since I have had poor luck trying to use the cam-lock style belts in other peoples' cars.

                  I use a couple of tie wraps to tie the shoulder and lap belts together on each side. Then, use something fairly rigid to make the 5th belt stand up. This way, all are easy to grab, and all you have to do is put 3 very easy pieces together, which can be done without even looking at them. I find this nearly impossible in a car with cam-locks, especially with a helmet on.

                  Using this system, we could get our stops down to less than 20 seconds, assuming we didn't need to fuel.

                  Also, I am not sure if I have fat thighs, but I find that most latch and link style harnesses use a very large hard leather pad under the latch. The Simpson brand of latch and link harnesses use a small assembly, with a small leather piece under it.

                  Just my $0.02 worth, btw.
                  Pete Mills
                  Cheap, fast, reliable. Choose 2.

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                  • #10
                    Gotta give a plug to my BMW buddies at HMS Motorsports.

                    Owner Joe Marko is an expert, and works closely with Schroth. He does various safety presentations to the pro racers.

                    He has a very interesting DVD video of how the belts work to protect you.

                    They're located in Mass, but will ship anywhere.
                    sigpic
                    Rob McAuley
                    TAC President

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